Haozhan8 Gerrard Street
London W1D 5PJ
Tel: 020 7434 3838
www.haozhan.co.ukRating: 4 stars (out of 5) - Very Good
I was recently asked about Chinese restaurants in London, not even specifically China Town and I genuinely had trouble finding a recommendation for anything other than those I might go for dim sum. I could've said Hakkasan and that would've been lazy but the food there was good, in fact it was great the last time I had been. I should've said so. It is a brave move for any restauranteur, in this case Jimmy Kong of New Fook Lam Moon, to open a new chinese restaurant in China town, and part of the attraction was former Hakkasan chef, Chee Loong Cheong, in the kitchen. Earlier in the day I came come across a
review of Haozhan on
Eat Like A Girl (
Niamh from Trustedplaces) and decided just before leaving the office after a day at work to go there for dinner.
Walking past you would probably overlook it as just another dressed up bad experience in China Town, but Haozhan inside is modern looking with black and green Feng Shui inspired decor certainly a cut above the rest. On walking in we were greeted instantly and were seated without a reservation. Presented with a menu you can instantly see this is no ordinary Chinese restaurant with much shorter list of tinges of Japanese, Taiwanese and Malay inspired Chinese dishes. There are certainly some interesting dishes such as Marmite prawns and baked silver cod with champagne and honey (very Hakkasan!). The service is polite, prompt and friendly. Our waiters were eager to help and we weren't rushed at any point to order. We ordered and our Jasmine tea arrived swiftly, lucky as I was parched.

We start with Grilled Dumplings, also known as pot stickers. Shallow fried freshly made dumplings filled with juicy pork. They were gorgeous. Before digging into our second dumpings the Curry Soft Crab arrived. Relatively large soft shell crab lightly curry battered and deep fried. The crab was tasty and the curry perfectly balanced without overpowering the natural flavour of the crab.
After finishing our starters our plates are cleared and we are brought new plates with bowls and freshly, perfectly steamed Thai fragrant rice. Sanpei Chicken arrives. Sanpei chicken is a clay pot dish made with onions, whole cloves of garlic, spring onions, and basil flavoured with three Chinese wines. Good but, there was virtually no hint of wine, and turned into a good stir fry if not slightly too salty for my taste.
The second of our main dishes was a controversial matter. Dim Sum and Sushi inspired, Haozhan Tofu are four silk-soft dessert tofu cubes with a puréed spinach top, carefully deep-fried topped with a firm sweet scallops garnished with fish roe. For her the almost custard like consistency and softness was not to her taste. Too much like a dessert for her. However, this was the platinum centerpiece of the dinner and the contrast of texture and flavour was perfect.
As explained in the menu, Chinese meals do not often have a pudding or a dessert. Traditionally and when growing up a Chinese meal was ALWAYS followed up with hot towels and freshly cut sweet and sticky oranges. However, in this very fusion inspired menu we were tempted by two desserts and choose to end the meal with the Banana Kataifi and the Cream of Pumpkin.
Banana Kataifi - Banana filled with red bean paste and deep fried in a greek kataifi pastry with really fresh fruit garnish. Looked great, tasted ok, hard and messy to eat.
Cream Of Pumpkin - chilled pumpkin and cream puree with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream served with steamed black rice and cocoa powder. A subtle combination of flavours that was the perfect way to end a meal, reminding me of a mix of sago pudding and mango dessert but not at the same time!
I really like what Haozhan is doing. Clean, friendly and modern Chinese... in often unreliable China Town. I knew to expect a decent meal and was more than surprised at how good it turned out to be. From start to finish our choice of dishes was generally a hit and only controversial with one dish. Just a touch over £46 for two appertisers, two mains, two dessert and tea for two plus tip. I look forward to returning to try the other dishes and perhaps splash out on some of the slightly higher priced dishes and noodle dishes that have read well in other reviews.